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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.